Kuala Lumpur – A good meal creates a mood that envelops us, and by inviting us to be part of the journey, it makes one feel enriched and enlightened. This was exemplified by the recent collaboration at Potager between Chef Masashi Horiuchi and Chef Julien Royer of Singapore’s three Michelin-starred Odette. This event also marked Chef Julien’s debut in Kuala Lumpur.
It was noteworthy that reservations for the two-night dinner, priced at RM1,680 per person, were fully booked within 10 minutes! Barely six months after opening, Potager—helmed by Chef Masashi—has gone from strength to strength. Its holistic experience, championing the hands that laboured, has earned it numerous local accolades.
Both Chef Masashi and Chef Julien are renowned for their deep interest in local terroir, respect for the integrity of ingredients, and dedication to championing the hands that laboured. For Chef Julien, this ethos comes naturally, as he comes from a family of fourth-generation farmers in Cantal, France.
It comes as no surprise that this stellar collaboration was a seamless match in both ethos and execution.
While staying true to their commitment to local ingredients and grounded in French techniques, there was also a subtle incorporation of Japanese flavours throughout the menu. Freshly grated wasabi added brightness to the Sawara, katsuobushi lent profound depth to the Langoustine sauce, and amazake infused the dessert, Blanc. But there is much more going on here. It is cooking that traces a journey, from dish to dish, from one memory to another. The menu was a meticulous combination of fine details done right, grasping the rhythmic cadence of its courses, and it is all beautiful and joyously over the top.
The culinary journey begins in earnest with amuse-bouche. The Green Pea and Caviar Tart from Potager offers a delicate balance of flavours, while the Duck & Foie Gras delivers a rich, velvety texture. The Saint Nectaire Cheese Doughnut surprises with its creamy interior, and the Botan Ebi Taco from Odette delights with its fresh, oceanic notes. Each piece is a brilliant mouthful, setting the stage for the courses to come.
Next comes the calming Mushroom Tea from Odette. The mushroom tea, infused with porcini, walnut, and buckwheat, is served with sabayon, undulating with earthy notes. The rustic flavours of the mushroom consommé are perfectly complemented by the cep brioche, making this course a calming experience.
Potager’s signature sourdough loaf follows, aromatic with rosemary and thyme, and served with confit garlic butter topped with garlic chips. This bread course bridges the transition to the next, more detailed dish.
The Uni & Caviar from Odette is detailed and exuberant. The Murasaki Uni, with its robust intensity, delights the palate. Housed within the uni shell, a tartare of Carabinero Spanish Prawns is paired with crisp Granny Smith apples, delicate mussel foam, and a generous dollop of Kristal Caviar.
Potager’s Corn dish is a true celebration of the humble ingredient, elevated to gourmet heights. Highland white corn is presented in various forms—corn velouté, truffle foam, corn tuile, pickled and toasted corn kernels, corn jelly, and crispy corn dusted with corn powder. Accompanied by Tanjung Malim caviar, corn bread, onion marmalade, and Stracciatella cheese, each element showcases the versatility and sweetness of corn. Sitting in my cozy booth, I am completely besotted by it all.
The culinary crescendo continues with Odette’s Langoustine Ravioli, generously topped with shavings of black truffle from France. The ravioli is accompanied by a leek fondue, katsuobushi, and vin jaune sauce – rich and luxurious.
Potager presents a perfectly Josper-grilled Sawara, paired with smoked paprika mussel, Hokkaido scallop, white radish and herb purée, watercress and coconut reduction, and a delicate potato mille-feuille. Chef Masashi adds a touch of freshly grated wasabi for brightness.
Against all this lightness and sunshine, Odette’s Kampot Pepper Crusted Pigeon feels almost autumnal.
The pigeon, chestnut-fed and sourced from Brittany, is complemented by an appreciation note from Chef Julien, koshihikari rice with morel mushrooms, broad beans, egg white, egg yolk, and tender white asparagus. This rice dish with seasonal greens is a tribute to the springtime and farming heritage of both chefs.
A refreshing Sorbet & Granita from Potager cleanses the palate before the final dessert from Odette, Blanc.
Inspired by snow, Blanc combines amazake, Hokkaido milk, and caramel in a dessert that is both delicate and deeply satisfying.
The meal concludes with a selection of douceurs from Potager and Odette: Lychee pâte de fruit, espresso fudge, Chitose strawberry tartlet, and lemon and honey kelulut tartlet.
So, what makes this four-hands collaboration so exceptional? It’s the perfect balance—nothing is excessive or overwhelming. Here, the finest ingredients are celebrated and presented beautifully.
The experience is further enhanced by the personal touch. Both Chef Julien and Chef Masashi take the time to greet each table and converse with guests, making the meal feel intimate and special. As a parting gift, they offer a memorable keepsake: a jar of Odette’s homemade blueberry jam, leaving you with a lasting impression.
